Chincoteague Island
Between latitude 37' and 38' North and running almost due North and South at about 76 W. longitude, is a peninsula formed by the Chesapeake Bay and Atlantic Ocean known as the Eastern Shore of Virginia, embracing the counties of Accomack and Northampton. The peninsula is about seventy miles in length and has a mean breadth of about ten miles. It is a flat, sandy tract, largely covered with pine, and swept by the breezes from the Atlantic and Chesapeake where the waters bathe it on either side. The monotony of the county, due to the absence of mountains, hills or broken surface, is relieved by picturesque bays and creeks which indent the mainland at frequent intervals.
About three miles from this peninsula lies a land-locked island. Assateague Beach, a narrow strip of land covered with pines, salt marshes and beautiful pastures, furnishes the eastern boundary; on the west stretch the sparkling waters of the Chincoteague Bay and channel; just north of the Island is Maryland's well known summer resort, Ocean City, while on the southern shore of Chincoteague dash the mighty waves of the Atlantic Ocean.
As to the exact date of its first settlement, we know little, but we do know that when New York City was a wilderness, inhabited by wild deer and manhattoes, while around Plymouth Rock everything was still a forest; Englishmen were smoking their calumet with red-skinned natives and enjoying the luxuries of this now far-famed resort. According to a paper read before the Maryland Historical Society by Dr. Covington, of Princeton University, Chincoteague was visited by Europeans in April, 1524, seventy-three years before the settlement of Jamestown. The expedition was sent out by Francis I, of France, and was commanded by Verrazzano. No settlement followed the exploration although Verrazzano landed on Metompkin and for three days explored the coast, visiting Chincoteague Island. Legend says that after his boats had been loaded with supplies, Verrazzano returned the hospitality of the Indians by kidnapping an Indian boy on the eve of his secret departure from the shores of Accomack. However, the first positive record is a grant by one Capt. William Whittington, October 25th, 1672, but as early as August 28, 1659, we find a letter of Colonel Edmond Scarborough, dated Onancock, in which he speaks of prospecting war against the Assateague Indians for the depredation upon citizens of upper Accomack and "Gingoteague" as the island was then called. In fact up to the time of its sub-division (about 1717) in both written and spoken discourses, Chincoteague was called "Gingoteague," and was at that time a vast area of pine trees, marsh lands, and mud flats.
When the first settlers came, they found ponies, then termed as now "Chincoteague Ponies," roaming through the net-work of trees and bushes and grazing on the salt marsh lands. These ponies were subjects of many traditions, whence Chincoteague has been called the "Island of Ponies." Once upon a time, according to the native Indians, a vessel sailing along the coast was wrecked in a storm. The cargo proved to be ponies, many of which escaped and managed to overcome the resistance of the white crested waves. By their endurance and strength, they reached their "Land of Canaan," Chincoteague. The two characteristics of the Chincoteague ponies just mentioned have enabled them to live independently of man's aid and care, and have caused them to grow into as robust and nimble ponies as any section of the Atlantic coast affords. Their popularity is not one of the home-first varieties, but it extends even beyond the limits of the Eastern Shore. Annually, a day is set aside by the inhabitants for the penning of these ponies, so that the owners may brand the young and exhibit their stock to the strangers who come from far and near to see and buy them.
Being isolated as it was in early history and a century or more afterwards, the growth of the Island was very slow. In 1838, the population was very small and the number of houses very few, but recently people from other places have realized that our Island is smiled upon by nature and caressed by fortune, which has enabled us to profit by the gifts of nature. To-day, the number of inhabitants is almost five thousand and a more cosmopolitan place is not to be found on the Eastern Shore.
In the early days there were three distinct classes of inhabitants upon the Islands: the pony owners, the lords of the land, and the fishermen. Hospitable were these hardy and religious people, and anyone visiting them at the time of their meals would find some ingenuity necessary to parry their pressing invitations, and hospitality in those days must have come directly from the heart, for the people were without labor-saving devices of any kind. It is interesting to contrast our modern comforts with their bare necessities. For instance, the "old-time" fire-place for both heating and cooking is now a thing of the past. The houses to-day are well-built and have every modern convenience. The "old-time" lamp consisted of a clam shell filled with lard and an old rag, kerosene being unknown on the island at that time. This crude method of lighting has been replaced with electricity. So also has the old fishing-rod and line given way to the most improved method of fishing yet advanced by the twentieth century. In fact the word, Progress, might well be stamped upon the entire Island.
The greatest disaster that has ever befallen Chincoteague was the hurricane and tidal wave of September, 1821. For hours the inhabitants watched the approach of a terrific storm. Finally a dull roar came nearer and nearer until suddenly a solid mass of rain, wind, and salt spray leaped upon the island with a scream. Great pines bent but for a moment, then were torn from their centered growth like a wisp of straw and hurled against each other with a crash bearing the resemblance of an earthquake. Houses floated from their foundations; boats were torn from their moorings; men and ponies were swept away as if they were only fallen leaves of the autumn trees.
In 1853 the first school-house was erected on the eastern-side of the Island. The first teacher was Peter Roberts. In the same building the combined church services of the Baptists and Methodist were held. In 1854, however, a school-house was built on the present site and each religious denomination erected a new separate church for themselves. To-day, the Island boasts of seven churches, including two for the Negroes.
Since oysters have proven such an essential factor in the progress of Chincoteague, we can but notice the beginning of this industry. In 1849, the first boat-load of oysters was planted in the Chincoteague Bay. Until this time the people had no certain industry, but lived by various occupations, such as catching terrapins, fishing and cultivating the soil. It was not until after the great storm of 1821 and the Civil War, did the Island take on new life and vigor.
The loyalty of our people is illustrated by a little incident that happened during the Civil War. A large flag-pole was erected, chiefly through the instrumentality of Mr. J. A. M. Whealton, a respected and prominent inhabitant then of Chincoteague, at the top of a pole a U. S. flag was flying. This could be distinctly seen from the mainland. No sooner had it been raised than a deputation visited Mr. Whealton and demanded its removal. "Gentlemen," said this gallant little Unionist "I erected that flag, and when it goes down, I go with it, but as long as I have an ounce of lead and a dram of powder and am able to use them, there it will stay." The flag stayed and since that day the Stars and Stripes have continued to float here in the salt breezes that come from the blue Atlantic. To-day the flag floats over our school buildings, recalling to the minds of the older inhabitants that the days of strife are over.
Chincoteague is now rapidly gaining the reputation of being a splendid resort. It affords many worthy attractions to travelers, the chief of which is the "Wild Goose Farm" of Mr. J. W. Whealton; the largest of its kind in the United States. This farm contains about five square miles, all enclosed by a wire fence from eight to ten feet in height. In the center of the farm is a large pond of fresh water upon which may be seen the Australian Black Swan; white swans with feathers glittering like gold in the rays of the sun, little goslings, and different kinds of geese. Scattered over the little lakes that are included in the farm, we notice a number of boxes mounted on suitable foundations. These are the houses of these different kinds of foul. They are covered on all sides with twigs, straw, leaves, and other kinds of shrubbery to furnish protection to them all the cold winter months.
For the inhabitants of Chincoteague the dreams of the past are rapidly becoming realities. The trade of our Island has been increased greatly since the establishment of the Ice and Electric plant here in 1913 by the Delmarva Light, Heat and Refrigerating Corporation. However, this history would not be complete without mentioning two of the many dreams that yet may be realized. One dream is that of a large spacious and thoroughly modern brick building. It will be situated on a large grass lot surrounded by trees and a high evergreen hedge. This building is the future Chincoteague High School. Why should not reality be substituted for this dream? Already the present building is overcrowded with pupils. Surely the people of the Island will not be found lacking when they realize that the future of their boys and girls depends upon the necessary school building. The other dream is a small but neat stone building, over the door of which is carved in a great marble slab "Town Library." These dreams are not idle past time, but those that will arouse the pride of the present Islander to the point where both his heart and his purse will be opened for the betterment of the community.