Cape Charles City: A Town Which Has Recently Sprung Into Existence On The Eastern Shore of Va.
A Record Of Its Progress -- Business Houses and Churches -- Fish, Oysters And Clams.
[Special Dispatch to the Baltimore Sun.]
CAPE CHARLES CITY, VA., Feb. 25. -- Prior to 1884 Cape Charles City occupied no position on the map of the Eastern Shore of Virginia, but about that time the Hon. W. L. Scott, of Erie, Pa., and a large stockholder in the then proposed New York, Philadelphia and Norfolk Railroad Company, purchased the large tract of land between King's creek and Old Plantation creek, known as "Old Plantation Neck." He immediately began extensive improvements to the property and donated a large tract of land to the New York, Philadelphia and Norfolk Railroad to be used exclusively for railroad purposes. In the meantime a plat of Cape Charles City was made, just north of the railroad property and extending about one-half mile each way, forming a square. Broad streets and avenues were laid out and inducements given to home-seekers to locate here.
Cape Charles Harbor.
In 1883 and 1884 the New York, Philadelphia and Norfolk railroad was in course of construction down the Eastern Shore peninsula, and during the same period a large and commodious artificial harbor was being made at the point to accommodate the terminal facilities of the railroad to enable it to connect with its line of steamers to Norfolk. The land-locked harbor of Cape Charles was originally a fresh-water pond, whose outlet to the bay was closed by the shifting sands along the beach, but by an appropriation from Congress in conjunction with the railroad a deep slip about 200 feet wide and 14 to 16 feet deep was dredged through the sand bank from Cherrystone channel to this pond, a distance of about a quarter of a mile. The pond was deepened and widened, wharves were built and commodious landings made to accommodate shipping.
All this was done before the railroad had been completed and consequently the little "city by the sea" did not begin to build up until after all these improvements to the harbor had been made and the "gateway to the South" had been virtually opened.
A Record Of Progress.
In 1885, the first year of the existence of the railroad, speculators began to turn their attention this way, and Horsey & Wolff, of Laurel, Del, invested heavily in town lots and began to erect buildings on them, while at the same time Capt. Thomas Parsons and S. B. Travis, both of Northampton county, also invested in desirable lots on Mason avenue and on Strawberry street. From then on the town has made rapid strides forward, until it now has a population of 1,200 to 1,500 people, with at least 50 places of business. By an act of the Legislature in 1885 Mr. Carl H. Walbridge was made the first Mayor of Cape Charles. The Councilmen who served with him at that time were Messrs. G. W. Russell, B. T. Fitchett, George W. Widgeon and L. E. Mumford. The Mayors of the town from that time till now were J. E. N. Sterling, W. H. Sterling, Thomas Nelson, J. W. Carroll, G. G. Savage and the present incumbent, M. H. Stevenson.
Each succeeding Town Council took great pride in the health and surroundings of the place. The paved sidewalks, complete waterworks and well-kept streets will attest this fact. The water-works are self-sustaining and are the property of the town. There is no town on the Eastern Shore that has better sidewalks than Cape Charles, as the wise provisions of the town government has made it incumbent upon each property owner to keep his pavement in good repair. The streets are lighted by the oil lamp system, but there has been considerable talk of putting in an electric light plant here.
The Churches.
There are six churches in Cape Charles, all with good congregations. The first house of worship, Bethany Methodist Episcopal Church, is the old building now used as a colored schoolhouse, and was dedicated by the Rev. C. A. Hill, of the Wilmington Conference. Its first membership consisted of Mr. and Mrs. L. E. Mumford and Mrs. A. D. Smith. In 1888 the first church edifice of this denomination was started under the pastorate of the Rev. W. A. Wise, now of Onancock. It was dedicated, free of debt, in 1889.
The Methodist Episcopal Church South was organized in 1887 by the Rev. George Rives with 16 members and was dedicated May 29, 1888. In 1894 ad 1895 a new and commodious brick edifice was erected under the pastorate of the Rev. Samuel W. Eason.
In the fall of 1887 the Cape Charles Baptist Church was organized and a handsome church edifice began the same year.
In 1889 St. Charles' Catholic Church was built here. The work was instituted by Bishop A. A. Curtis of Wilmington, Del., and Father Edward Mickle placed in charge. Since then a priest house has been built, and about three years ago the School of the Holy Family. These buildings are of brick and valued at about $35,000. They are entirely free from debt and in a flourishing condition.
During the year 1890 a Presbyterian church was organized here by a committee appointed by the East Hanover Presbytery and Rev. W. S. Lacy, D.D., preached the sermon. Rev. A. S Venable is its pastor, and through his untiring energy in connection with its members a new and magnificent church edifice has been erected the past year.
Emmanuel Protestant Episcopal Church had its origin in mission services in various buildings during the first few years of the existence of Cape Charles. In the spring of 1889 its present church building was begun and finished, and was consecrated by Bishop Randolph. Rev. W. N. Meade is its rector.
Good Schools.
The public school system of this end of the peninsula was meager in the extreme until the town of Cape Charles was founded, when an active interest was taken among the people to establish a school here. The first school of any kind was a one-story frame building, with Miss Emma Fitchett as teacher. In 1892, by an act of the Legislature, Cape Charles was made a separate school district and has since taken care of her own public school. The Town Council lays a tax of 30 cents on the $100 for the support of the school and does not contribute anything toward the other schools in the county. In addition to this tax the school receives its proportion of the school fund from the State of Virginia. The first trustees of the public school under the new arrangement were C. A. McKinney, J. T. Daniel and I. T. Whittington.
For two years the original frame schoolhouse was used, then a brick building of two rooms was built, but it was soon found to be inadequate for the growing school population of Cape Charles and two more rooms were built during the summer of 1897. Since then the Cape Charles public school has made rapid strides and is well patronized by the people.
The School of the Holy Family is a strictly Catholic institution and is presided over by the Franciscan Sisters. Its standard of educational facilities is among the best, and although a strictly Catholic school, a number of Protestants are among its patrons. The building is a substantial brick one and is a credit to the town.
The Railroad A Big Factor.
As indicated above, the New York, Philadelphia and Norfolk railroad is responsible for the founding of Cape Charles and plays a very important part in its history. The road was opened for business in 1884 and the first steamer that made connection with Norfolk was the Jane Mosely. She was succeeded by various others until the company secured the Cape Charles (No. 1). This vessel was designed to carry an entire train of passenger equipment across the bay without change, but on account of her size proved an expensive experiment. She was soon withdrawn and the steamer Old Point Comfort, then a new vessel, was placed on the route. This, of course, necessitated a change at this point from the train to steamer. In 1887 a fleet of barges and tugs were put on the route to transfer freight cars across the bay. The tug Portsmouth was the first put into commission in this capacity, quickly followed by the Norfolk, Philadelphia and the Delmar., the latter being a steel twin-screw steamer of powerful capacity. Three handsome and palatial steamers are now in service between this place and Old Point Comfort and Norfolk. They are the Old Point Comfort, New York and the Pennsylvania. The latter is a new twin-screw steamer and is said to be one of the fastest passenger steamers on Chesapeake Bay. The floating property of this railroad company consists of seven steamers and seven barges, besides a barge in course of construction at Sparrows Point, Md. The superintendent's office is located here, as well as the car and locomotive repair shops. Mr. J. G. Rodgers is superintendent of the road and Mr. C. A. McKinney is road supervisor. Mr. A. G. Manahan is the efficient and obliging trainmaster.
The New York,, Philadelphia and Norfolk railroad furnishes the principal industry here and its pay rolls amount to thousands of dollars each month.
Fish, Oysters And Clams.
Cherrystone oysters and clams are considered a delicacy by the epicure, and here is where they are handled for shipment. Those most extensively engaged in this industry are Sterling Bros. and J. B. Jones. The oyster business has, so far this season, brought hundreds of dollars to our people.
The fish business, which is a summer industry, is extremely interesting and extensively carried on by Sterling Bros., J. S. Warren & Son and others and brings a handsome revenue to those engaged in it, while the shipment of clams and crabs and crab meat is next in point of importance.
As A Shipping Point.
Cape Charles harbor is the only means of access to the railroad by water, and consequently this is a great shipping point during the potato season, which begins about May and lasts until the latter part of August. The round potato season brings buyers here from the Northern cities and thousands of barrels are sold before they are unloaded from the sailboats that bring them here from the farms along the creeks that line the bayside of Northampton county. Upward of 10,000 barrels per day have been unloaded here for shipment over the railroad, and during the season the harbor presents a city-like appearance with its fleet of boats waiting to be unloaded.
Business Aspect.
The L. E. Mumford Banking Company is the solid financial institution of the county and is the result of the indefatigable energies of Mr. L. E. Mumford, for whom the company is named. He began business January 15, 1896, as L. E. Mumford, banker. May 1, 1900, the bank, with its successful record, was organized into a stock company under the laws of Virginia, with a capital of $100,000 and known as the L. E. Mumford Banking Company, with the following officers and directors: L. E. Mumford, president; R. V. Nottingham, vice-president; L. E. Mumford, cashier; H. W. B. Williams, assistant cashier; J. Page Nottingham, teller; directors, J. G. Rogers, R. V. Nottingham, Hon. John E. Nottingham, Dr. John T. Wilkins, Jr., Hon. Gilmer S. Kendall and Otho F. Mears. On May 15, 1900, a branch bank was opened at Kilmarnock, Lancaster county, Va., with Wilbur T. James cashier and John A. Palmer teller. In September of the same year another branch was established at Mathews Courthouse, Mathews county, Va., with J. Page Nottingham cashier. The first of the present month a third branch was opened at West Point, Va., with H. E. Topping cashier. A new bank building has just been completed at Reedville, Va., and the fourth branch of the company will soon be established at that place.
The Cape Charles Ice and Lumber Company was organized about seven years ago and is composed of W. B. Wilson, R. D. L. Fletcher and J. W. Waples. It is the largest dealer in lumber, building materials, ship chandlery, ice and coal, hardware, etc., in the country. It has the entire trade in its line in Cape Charles, besides supplying the lower end of the peninsula with its wares, including a portion of Accomac county.
The dry good business of the town is controlled by the following well-stocked stores: W. B. Wilson, W. T. Townsend, H. W. Williams & Sons and W. Benjamin. These merchants have a good trade from the town and county, which enables them to carry the latest and best of everything in their line.
J. W. Jones, the only merchant tailor here, came to the city in 1887. He is a practical tailor and his business increases yearly.
Mr. George B. Tilghman is the only jeweler in the town, having been here about nine years. He is a thorough mechanic in his line and has the trade of the county, as well as of the immediate community. He came here from Maryland and has built up a lucrative trade by his superior knowledge of the business.
The grocery business of our town is handled by C. A. Travis and Cyrus W. Williams. These gentlemen are up to date in their business and carry full and complete lines of their class of goods.
Mrs. I. H. Milligan carries on an extensive millinery establishment here, and it is the largest store of the kind in the county. She has been in the business here for several years, and, knowing the wants of her customers, she has a large trade through the county.
A. T. Taylor carries on an extensive business in bicycle repairing and has the largest and most complete shop in the county.
Other Business.
W. A. Ames has the distinction of keeping the largest livery and sale stable south of Pocomoke City, Md. He has been in the business a number of years and is well known all over the peninsula as keeping the finest teams in the county.
There are two drug stores, which have the reputation of being the best operated in the county -- Kellam's pharmacy and Garrison & Tyler's drug store. They carry a full supply of toilet articles and patent medicines. Indeed, no handsomer or more up-to-date stores of the kind can be found in towns larger than this. Dr. B. C. Kellam is a leading physician of the town.
Dr. W. D. Williams is the resident dentist and is a graduate of the Baltimore Dental College. He is a native of the county and has a large and lucrative practice from nearly every section of the county.
John T. Daniel is the only resident attorney in the town and is a prominent citizen. He came here in 1889, being then a young graduate just from college, and soon identified himself with the town and its people and has held many important positions. He holds the office of attorney to the City Council.
M. H. Stevenson is one of the most prominent men of the town and is at present its Mayor, having been elected to that office for three successive terms. He is engaged in the insurance business and rental collection agency for the bulk of the town property. He is also one of the leading produce brokers in this section.
Ira Carmean is the leading barber of Cape Charles and his establishment is credit to the town.
The Cape Charles Light is the only paper in the town and is ably edited by John W. Carroll and his associate, Mr. J. B. Fitzgerald.
Beneficial Organizations.
Cape Charles has six beneficial organizations -- Improved Order of Heptasophs, Ancient Order United Workmen, Royal Arcanum, American Fraternal Insurance Union, Junior Order United American Mechanics, a blue lodge, also a Royal Arch chapter of Masons and Woman's Christian Temperance Union.
One of the leading industries of the town is the J. B. Jones Crab Packing House, where, in conjunction with his two sons, Bruce L. and Thomas, he prepares crab meat for market; also packs and ships oysters and clams.
Sterling Bros., composed of W. H., J. E. N. and James H. Sterling, also carry on an extensive business in fish and oysters and, besides shucking thousands of gallons of oysters each season, ship large quantities of barrel stock. They own extensive planting grounds in Old Plantation and Cherrystone creeks, and were among the first to introduce the planting of oysters in these waters. Their trade in fresh fish during the spring and fall will reach thousands of dollars. They own and control a number of fish traps on this side of the bay.
Mr. W. B. Wilson, besides being at the head of the Scott estate at this place and the senior partner of the Cape Charles Ice and Lumber Company is a prominent citizen of the county, as well as of Cape Charles. He has been identified with a number of enterprises here.
John W. Carroll, chief clerk to Superintendent J. G. Rogers, of the New York, Philadelphia and Norfolk Railroad, has identified himself with the town almost from its founding, having been foremost in nearly every modern improvement. He has held the office of Mayor for one term and has been twice elected as Councilman.
P. W. Savage, another one of the town's prominent citizens, was the first postmaster appointed here and also the first ticket agent of the New York, Philadelphia and Norfolk Railroad at this point, which office he still holds.
Mr. C. G. Smithers and J. D. King are train dispatchers of the New York, Philadelphia and Norfolk Railroad. The former holds the office of Collector of Customs and the latter that of School Trustee.
Cape Charles has two large and commodious hotels, which are well patronized by the traveling public. The are the Cape Charles Hotel and Northampton Hotel. The former is under the management of Mr. L. G. Johnson, formerly of Laurel, Del., and the latter is owned by Mr. S. B. Travis, and will be conducted in a few weeks by Mr. Peter Ayers of [illegible].
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[Illegible] fishing. Indeed, this is the home of wild fowl of all kind, from the goose to the smallest bird that migrates at stated seasons. It is but a few miles to the famous ducking ground of Broadwater, and those of our people who can spare the time make periodical visits to this coveted sportsman's paradise. So well know are the opportunities for the sportsman that hundreds of people from the Northern cities come here in winter to enjoy a day or so of shooting.
The Chesapeake bay, in front of Cape Charles, is indeed a beautiful sheet of water and affords a splendid opportunity for boating. Cherrystone channel, which lies in the offing, is protected from the roll of the bay by a sand bar extending for three or four miles south from the mouth of the creek of that name, and small craft ply up and down this thorough fare on pleasure or business trips. Within the past year some interest has been taken in boating for pleasure, and a club is in the course of organization to conduct a series of boat races this coming season. Fishing with hook and line is a sport that attracts a number of people here in the spring and fall. In the former season bluefish are caught in great numbers in these waters and afford abundant sport for the modern Nimrod. In the fall months sea and bay trout are caught in abundance. To enjoy this sport it is only necessary to go a few hundred yards from the shore in the Cherrystone channel at the mouth of Cape Charles harbor. So abundant are these fish in their season that a number of people here make a good living catching them for market, especially in the early and latter part of the season. The drum, bluefish and trout are gamey fish, and to land them with hook and line would sink to insignificance the fishing in mountain streams for brooktrout.
Social Features.
The population of Cape Charles is made up of people from any States. It has families from Pennsylvania, New York, Maryland, and North Carolina, and its social features are unlike the typical Eastern Shore towns. There are many well-to-do families here, but none that may be considered rich. Most of the older residents of the town have accumulated their wealth here in pursuit of some calling incident to the surroundings. The people are industrious and hospitable, each pursuing his calling in the accumulation of wealth. Retired families are unknown in the town. On account of the varied character of the population there is not that unity of spirit that pervades older communities, but within the last few years we have come to be more of a united people.
Industrial Opportunities.
Cape Charles presents splendid opportunities for the location of factories of all kinds, including marine railway and shipyard, and it is only waiting for Northern capital to locate here. The facilities for shipment north or south cannot be surpassed by any town on the peninsula, and at present improvements to the harbor are in the course of construction, including stone jetties extending out to Cherrystone channel on either side of its entrance, which, when completed, will furnish a safe and convenient harbor for all classes of boats. The transporting of troops by the "Cape Charles route" during the Spanish American War has brought Cape Charles and its water facilities permanently before the Government, and it is believed that in the future Cape Charles will be made a supply station in the emergencies of war.
Public Buildings.
The Cape Charles Customhouse makes this the only port of entry on the Eastern Shore of Virginia. Branches at Onancock and Chincoteague are under the supervision of this office. Mr. C. G. Smithers is the collector of customs at this port, and Mr. John Goffigon is deputy collector. The postoffice is held by Mr. C. A. McKinney, with Mr. Maurice Garrison as his efficient assistant. Strenuous efforts are being made to get an appropriation from Congress toward a Government building here in which to place the postoffice and customhouse.
As A Health Resort.
The climate of Cape Charles is almost similar to Florida at least nine months in the year. The temperature is such as would be of great benefit to those suffering with pulmonary disease. The summers are long, but not exceedingly hot, on account of the ocean breeze which fans this part of the Peninsula. January, February and March are considered the severest months during the year. This is on account of the northeast storms that sweep down the stream, causing the atmosphere to be damp and heavy. Barring these months Cape Charles can be considered as an ideal place for the establishment of a health resort.
Northampton County.
This county was originally settled by the English, and today can be seen traces of English aristocracy among the older families, but since the railroad was built through the county a great change has been made and modern ideas have been adopted. Geographically it occupies the extreme southern end of the Eastern Shore and its shores are washed by the Atlantic ocean and the Chesapeake bay. On the ocean side are a number of small islands linked together by sandbars, back of which are broad bays known as Broadwater and Magothy bay. Low marsh lands extend far inland from these bays and afford feeding grounds for wild fowl of all kinds. The bay are noted for their natural oyster rocks, while the flats are being rapidly taken up as planting grounds for the cultivation of oysters for the markets. At the extreme southern end of the county is Smith's Island, on which is located a life saving station and the Cape Charles Lighthouse. Linden Island, otherwise known as Linden Bar, is a small sand island on the bay side at the point. Here the United States Government has a quarantine station and a hospital where sailors sick with contagious diseases are treated. Just across Fisherman's inlet, on the main land, is located the summer home of Hon. John S. Wise, of New York. Here he has made considerable improvement in the past few years. The bay shore from the point as far north as Pickett's Harbor is a high bleak tableland. Here it gently slopes down to the water's edge, with here and there large sand hills, blown up by the storms even to the limbs of the tall pines that line the shore. Old Plantation creek is the first stream that empties into the bay north of Cape Charles Point. Then comes Cherrystone Creek, on the banks of which, in full view of the bay, is situated Cherrystone Lodge, a noted resort for sportsmen at all seasons of the year. The next creek is Hungars [Creek], about five miles north of Cape Charles City. This creek is noted for its fine oysters, as well as Cherrystone, and has on it some of the Colonial residences of "ye olden times." Wilkins Beach is at the mouth of this creek and a large commodious hotel, Wilkins Beach Hotel, is situated on a high bluff overlooking the bay. Nandua [Creek] and Occahonnock creeks are still farther north. The county seat is Eastville and is one of the oldest towns on the peninsula. Two years ago the old Courthouse, over 300 years old, was torn down and replaced by a handsome modern structure. There are records to be found in the Clerk's office that antedate the Revolution by over 100 years. The soil of Northampton county is light, sandy, easy of cultivation and takes kindly to fertilizers. The chief crops are Irish and sweet potatoes. Diversified farming is badly needed in the county.