Forest and Stream, December 10, 1874

TERRAPINS.

Sea -- TerrapinNatural resources -- Conservation - Game

Place a dish of cooked terrapin before a Philadelphian or a Baltimorean, and he will readily determine by its flavor whether it was raised in Maryland, Virginia, Georgia, or South Carolina. Their sense of taste is as delicate and critical as that of the Chinese tea tasters, while the flavor of the terrapin itself is more difficult to define or to analyze than the grateful odor of the truffle. In New York we scarcely appreciate the distinction, as we are not educated to it. We do not wish to decry the merits of the terrapins found South of Maryland, but we know that in our markets the Long Island and Chesapeake terrapins command much higher prices than their Southern congeners. To keep terrapins -- to pack them -- has long been the dream of our various market dealers, and numerous experiments have been tried to preserve them, so as to have them ready for the season. The festive supper period being over, say about February in the Northern States, the demand for this most delicate tortoise ceases. In July and August they are found quite plentifully South. The problem is to buy them in the South, when out of season, for use North, and to keep them for Winter, when the demand sets in. Seeing a live young terrapin, scarce larger than a trade dollar, swimming along uncommonly lively in an aquarium the other day, we determined to trace up the origin of the infant phenomenon. A gentleman purchasing the terrapins coming from Georgia, South Carolina, and even Texas, they were introduced into a preserve arranged for them at Long Branch. As the terrapins from the South arrive North just at the period of laying their eggs, it was hoped that they might be hatched, and a supply be obtained; but as their growth is very slow this is rather a difficult matter, for a terrapin a year old will not exceed two inches in length. Another obstruction to the success of the enterprise is the fact that the young terrapins are often eaten by the parents the moment they appear. The age of the terrapin is judged from the wrinkles on the shell, and by competent persons it is supposed that it takes from eight to ten years before it attains full growth. The Southern species is readily distinguished from the Northern by its darker shell, and having less prominence of knobs on the ridge of the shell.

The only large establishment in the Northern States devoted specially to the breeding of terrapins is that belonging to Mr. West, at Long Branch; but how far it may be successful it would be hard to decide at present. The hatching of the eggs by artificial process has proved successful to a certain extent, for many of the eggs are often thrown away owing to a want of that knowledge required for incubating them properly. If fifty per cent. are hatched it is considered good returns; so it will be seen that a large capital is required to carry the enterprise to a successful issue, as a terrapin does not lay over five or six eggs, and the young are assailed by many enemies, prominent among which are the crab and some voracious fishes. At the Long Branch establishment 1,500 terrapins are now being reared; but it will be a long time before they yield any financial returns, owing to the slowness of their growth. They do not require any food throughout the Winter, as they hide themselves away from the cold, and lie in a dormant state until the return of warm weather. Their usual food is fish, for they refuse all meat. One reason given for the decrease of shell fish in our rivers, where they were formerly plentiful, is that the terrapin catchers take old and young alike, and as the creatures do not commence laying eggs before they are four years old it is evident that their increase is prevented by this needless slaughter. The only way to prevent this idle destruction is to make a stringent law, fining every person who sells one under six inches in length. This will allow the creatures to increase, so there will be little danger of a scarcity when they are wanted.

Forest and Stream
New York
December 10, 1874