A Trip to Some of the Sea Islands of Virginia

While in Northampton county for a short time during the last summer, I sought an opportunity to see some of the neighboring sea islands, which have not attracted so much curiosity as to induce many of their near neighbors on the "main" to examine them, though residing within the distance of twelve or fifteen miles -- and they are scarcely known to exist, by most persons west of the Chesapeake. These circumstances stimulated me the more to incur the difficulties of making the passage to this almost terra incognita. The short time which I had to spare, and the necessity of bringing the trip within the extent of 24 hours, made my excursion more hurried, and the view more cursory than was desirable.

After all preparations had been made, and we were ready to set sail at the appointed time, a change of wind compelled us to abandon the attempt for that day. The next morning, as it was arranged by W., (whom I had engaged as a guide,) to make use of the early tide, we were all to be on the shore two hours before day break. I thought that this appointment would not be likely to be kept by all -- and so it proved. It was day break when we reached the shore, and the tide of the little creek was too low for our canoe to swim. There was no help, but to wait (patiently or otherwise) for the rising tide, which was not high enough for several hours. Even at the early hour when we arrived, the horse which drew our "carry-all" was soon beset by the green-headed flies, which are so abundant every summer as to be the greatest pest of the sea-side, and which are said to be uncommonly numerous at this time. They are seldom very troublesome except during the heat of the day: but now, one of us alone could not keep the horse clear of them: and if the attempt had ceased for a few minutes, the tortured animal, though well used to such attacks, would have broken loose, and taken to his heels. A servant soon reached the place, and we were glad to send the horse away. The dogs during the same time showed by their antics that if they suffered less than the horse, it was only because they had better means of ridding themselves of their tormentors. They were continually biting their rumps, or wallowing on the ground, or running about, as I have seen when one had incautiously poked his nose into a yellow-jackets' nest. These flies in July and August often compel the working horses to be taken from their ploughs by 10 o'clock, and to be kept in their stables until even 4 in the evening. But at this time, it is with great difficulty, and in torture to the horses and mules, that they can plough at all in the day. One proprietor has lately discarded the effort altogether, and for the last week has been ploughing his corn only during the night, for which the moon happened to suit well. He intends (as I afterwards heard from him) to cover his mules in full dresses of old sailcloth, as the only probable mode of protecting them. These flies are known through all lower Virginia, but are no where numerous, or very troublesome, except on lands immediately adjoining these sea marshes, where they breed in the marsh grass. They are about five-eights or three-fourths of an inch in length, here as elsewhere. This plague must be a serious offset to the value of lands, and the great advantages of living on the sea-side farms.

Where we were waiting was a tide mill, the pond of which usually was filled and then drawn low every day, and the bottom of which was now becoming bare rapidly. Flocks of seagulls were busy fishing in the deeper part of the retreating waters, and some hogs were advancing "in line" through the mudflats, catching shell fish, or other food left by the tide. Our oarsmen went in for their share of the harvest, and picked up oysters, which were thrown upon a fire prepared for the purpose, and thus soon provided themselves with a breakfast.

Our pilot, and owner of our little vessel, was a regular sea-side fisherman, a sort of salt-water "Leather-Stocking," who was as much at home in the pursuit of this game, furnished by the waters, as the other renowned character was in the woods. His name might have been coveted for the hero of a lady-author's novel: but rough old Charles Dillon was any thing but what such a name would have indicated in romance. In his early days he had been employed enough on shipboard to make him a thorough sailor: but he preferred, and had now long pursued the business of fisherman, varied occasionally, according to his account (though of course not recently,) by the more adventurous and spirit-stirring exploits of smuggling and wrecking, but always in a decent and civil way. With all the points of character and of habits which belonged to his station, there were glimpses of better feelings exhibited from time to time, which made him appear to me as one of nature's gentlemen, marred by chance, and the force of circumstances. Taken altogether, there was much to admire in old Charles, and we soon became good friends and cronies. My first
step in his favor was made by his finding out that I was a member of the Temperance Society -- as that gave him what might otherwise have been my share of the contents of the bottle of rum which my companion had brought. Charles seemed to know by a sort of instinct, the state of the tide, even when in his bed. When at last it nearly served to float our boat, he was absent, having gone to his home, half a mile from the water, probably for some "creature comforts" of his own: but while W. was damning him very liberally for disappointing us, he made his appearance -- and almost at the very minute that it was first possible to set off.

We started with the rising tide, rowing through narrow channels, bounded by naked mud banks and marshes. The shallow sounds or channels which separate the island from the main land at this place are far from being open water, as I had supposed. Extensive mud shoals, which are naked at low tide, and not enough covered to be passed over, except at high tide, and numerous marshes covered with tall sea-grasses, fill more than three-fourths of the space, and make the navigation circuitous, and also difficult, to those not well accustomed to the routes. Thus ten miles, which is the nearest distance across the water to Hog Island from the main, were made fifteen in our morning's voyage, and much farther when returning. The water too, through which the boats pass, is generally shallow, though there are open channels of sufficient depth for large sea-vessels passing between the line of island and the main.

Our canoe was not so poor a sea-boat as its name would imply on our fresh waters. Though only of little more than twenty feet in length, at bottom, it was stiff and safe, of which we had abundant proof, furnished by the rise of wind before the trip ended. As usual here, the canoe had been sawn open, and widened by letting in a keel, and the sides were raised by laying on a plank to each. It had two masts, and sails, which were brought into use after getting into the more open water.

Gulls are here in great numbers, and of several kinds. This is their breeding time, and their eggs are much in request for food, and are considered a great delicacy. My companions landed to search for them on a marsh island. One kind of gull builds a nest of marsh-weeks on a high tussock. The eggs are nearly as large as those of hens, and quite as large as Guinea fowls'. The wetness of the marsh and my unwillingness to incur unnecessary risk of being made sick, prevented my leaving the boat at this place. The gulls rose in numbers with screams and moans, and accompanied the course and kept over the heads of the plunderers of their nests. It seemed to me at first a shameful act -- but it would be difficult to show that it is less justifiable, or less merciful, than taking other living articles of food, as much for sport as for use. Afterwards when I accompanied the egg hunters on a sand islet, I soon entered very earnestly in the pursuit, and was in a fair way of losing all my previously acquired intolerance for bird-nesting.

The largest kind of gull seems to live on the insects or other light substances which float in the foam on the surface of the water. Its dexterity in skimming off its food is admirable. I afterwards observed them flying at their usual great speed, and for considerable distances, the tip of the beak just grazing the surface of the water, and apparently never varying from that precise gage, not withstand the high swell of the waves required a continual and great alteration of the bird's course. Nothing could be more graceful, or more exact in movement.

We passed near to a large island, called Prout's, which is uninhabited, except by flocks of sheep. We had not time to call. This bears almost no trees; and wherever visible from the water, seemed to be but little else than sand hills very scantly covered with weeds or grass. It was said, however, that in the interior there is much of good grazing land. The north-western part of the island, which we approached, is losing greatly by the encroachments of the sea.

About half a mile from Prout's, and between that and Hog Island, (in Matchapungo Inlet,) lies a newly formed islet, which, with the peculiar felicity which our country men exhibit in giving names to places, has been dignified with the name of Pig Island. Until within the last ten years, this was only a shoal, which was usually bare at low tide, and sometimes was washed quite away by the fury of tempests. It seems now to be permanent, and will probably grow, by accessions of sand brought by the breakers, until it is a large island. I was particularly anxious to visit this spot -- to catch nature in the fact, as it were, of producing land. This, doubtless, is the manner in which all the larger islands were formed in the open sea -- and at an earlier epoch, the peninsula (or "main") also. Unless destroyed by encroachments of the sea, (of which there are many evidences, both on the shores of the islands, and on both sides of the peninsula,) it may be supposed that the sand hills, which give elevation to both will gradually be driven by the violent power of winds and waves, until they spread over the shoals and marshes and make firm land of the space over which we had been sailing. The sand hills, which are formed altogether by the violence of the ocean waves, and of materials brought from the shallow bottom, are higher than any other land, either on the islands or the main -- often 30 feet high, and sometimes much more.

It was at high water when we landed on this newly formed island; and it then seemed to be in size, from 25 to 30 acres. It had no where more than two or three feet elevation above the then height of tide. But a few growing weeds were seen -- perhaps not a dozen in walking across it to the Atlantic side. And here we may trace nature's operations, not only in forming dry land, but in compounding soil of more or less fertility, out of materials separately barren and worthless. The island consists entirely of pure silicious sea sand, except for the mixture of shells scattered throughout. These, through recent, and of course very hard, were rarely entire, and gave evidence of the power of the water in breaking and grinding them down. Clay then is only wanting to give consistency to the soil, and make it even well constituted. Seeds of various plants will be brought by the winds and by the water. The dung of vegetable matter, will give the fertility wanting. I am told that the shells are seen even at the tops of the sand hills: and if so, there can be on doubt
but that they must have been originally thus given generally, though too sparingly, to the whole main land of Northampton -- though the ages which have passed have served to dissolve them, and conceal their former existence. The cultivated land in Hog Island, as I afterwards saw, now shows broken clam shells throughout -- and the habits of the people, as well as their words, declare that the shells were never put there by the hand of man.

The sandy islet furnished a much more abundant supply of the eggs of another kind of gull -- and all newly laid, as one of our crew had "egged" the place clean only a few days before. This kind of gull makes no nest, or at least, it is but a scarcely observable indentation on the sand. The eggs are smaller than those laid in the marsh. I found five nests containing from one to three eggs each, within the space of 40 yards. But as the tide was precious, we could give but little time to the study of world-making, or to bird-nesting. I requested my companion to bring here some of the seeds of the Magothy Bay bean -- which will grow well, as soon as any thing can and perhaps will greatly advance the time when this spot may become habitable.

I was disappointed in one object in visiting this islet. Though there standing on the beach of the great ocean, the water was so smooth that our canoe could have sailed as safely on that side as on the other. The wind set from the shore, and even if it had been towards it, the fury of the breakers would not have reached the beach, but would be spent on the extremity of a shoal which stretched out perhaps a mile into the sea. At that place, calm as it was, the white-capped billows were breaking magnificently, (at least to my unpractised eyes,) and with a continued roar, like the muttering of distant thunder.

We now steered for the landing on the western side of Hog Island. We had several hours to stop here, as there would be no advantage gained by returning before a particular state of the tide. It had been intended to walk across (more than a mile) to the ocean beach -- but the fatigue previously incurred prevented, as it was stated that the scene would be nothing more than what was witnessed on the sand islet.

In part of the shallow waters of this sound there was a strange occurrence some years ago, which I have heard stated by several different persons, and which seems to rest on perfectly good authority, as I will repeat it. One of the islanders, named Travis, was out alone in his canoe, "striking" drum fish, in the usual manner, that is, with a spear, or harpoon, attached to a long wooden handle. While pushing over a place where the water was not more than two feet deep, or perhaps less, he came up with a large shark. He struck at him with his harpoon to no purpose, and the shark by its sudden and violent motion caused the man to lose the hold on his weapon. The enraged animal rushed against the canoe with such force as to upset it, and then attempted to seize on the defenceless fisherman. The shallowness of the water only prevented his instantaneous destruction. The formation of the shark makes it necessary for him to turn on one side to seize effectually so large a prey, and this the water was not deep enough to permit with ease. As he, however, with some little delay, grasped the leg of Travis between his jaws, the man, as his only possible defence, thrust his thumbs into the eyes of the monster, and kept them there, pushing himself off by the pressure and support, while the shark continued to nip his leg and thigh, and to make numerous wounds. Still he was not able to use his force effectually, and at last, let go and fled from his gouging antagonist. The man instantly righted his canoe, and jumped in, just in time before his enemy returned to the attack. He did not however again strike the canoe, and indeed his upsetting it at first was probably the effect of accident more than of a designed assault. The water, baled out of the canoe from time to time, was reddened with the man's blood, and served as a bait to draw on the shark, and keep up the threatened appearance of a renewed attack. But grievously wounded, and worn out with exertion as he was, and followed closely by his awful attendant, the fisherman was just enabled to paddle his canoe to the shore, and fell on the beach exhausted by loss of blood and fatigue. He received speedy aid, however, and sustained no permanent injury from his numerous flesh wounds.

On all the maps of Virginia, previous to the late one published by the state, these sea islands are represented very incorrectly, and as far smaller than they are. Very few persons, even in lower Virginia, know anything of them -- and the publication of the large new map has not served to remove existing errors on this subject, though it shows more size in the islands, and of distance from the main land. By the way, this map, with all its pretension, deserves but little credit for correctness in other places, and probably is even still less to be relied on as to this region. In truth, the inlets, or passages between the different islands, are not distinctly seen any where from the main -- and from thence the line of islands completely shuts out all view of the Atlantic. From these circumstances, and the difference from the older maps, it might be supposed that the land was gaining on the ocean, and the islands increasing in size. But it is understood that the reverse is the fact -- at least as to firm land. The low marshes, which border all the islands next the sound, probably are increasing, and may in time fill up much of the space now covered by water. But it is believed that the ocean is encroaching on the eastern side -- throwing sand hills in advance of its progress, and then sweeping all away. Numerous stumps of trees are said now to be seen in the shallow waters, left naked only at low tides: and on Smith's Island, the brick foundation of a house may be seen in the sea at some distance from the shore.

Hog Island contains several thousand acres. Eleven families reside on it, and live (as it appeared) in great comfort, on the returns of their fishing, and small amount of tillage. I visited several houses, on separate little farms, and was much pleased with the appearance and manners of the people. They were very civil, and kind in manner, without the least appearance of servility, or impertinent curiosity or familiarity. Every attention was offered that could have been desired, and nothing that was obtrusive or disagreeable. Indeed in the true and proper sense of the word, I have no where seen a more polite people than these plain and simple islanders. Hospitable they are in a high degree, and no doubt moral, and correct in conduct, according to their notions of
right and wrong. It must be confessed that they have never accounted smuggling and wrecking (in a decent way) among the things prohibited by the Decalogue -- but rather consider the opportunities for both as among the bounties of Providence, which are to be enjoyed temperately and thankfully. But the want of capital prevents smuggling almost entirely, notwithstanding the great facilities which the islands offer: and the erection of the light-house on Smith's Island, has almost put an end to the wrecking business, both lawful and unlawful. The strong inducements which the existence of high duties on manufactured commodities, and the peculiar features of this coast, held out to smuggling, have been but little availed of, compared to what might have been expected. If that means of breaking down the tariff for the protection of manufactures had been seriously resorted to, there would have been no need of the "compromise," nor of any other remedy. All the American naval power could not enforce here the execution of highly oppressive revenue laws, if there was a general wish to elude them -- and it is some consolation that even that remedy is left, should there be a return to the prohibitory system, and a determination to destroy the blessings of free trade, for the benefit of particular favored interests.

Most of this island is covered with wood -- some pine of small and worthless growth, and much cedar of great value as durable fencing timber. Much of this is carried to the main, for posts. The price of land here is as low, as it is high on the main. I heard of about 80 acres having been recently bought for less than 50 dollars, and from which more than that value in cedar posts had already been taken. The best of the cedar timber is said to be of a more ancient growth, the trees having been prostrated, covered by the sand hills, and now again lain bare by the encroaching sea. Whether from the nature of the soil, or from being afterwards saturated with salt, (as some think,) this timber is almost indestructible by time and exposure. But the modern cedar growth is much less value, as if the soil had ceased to be favorable. With a view to the sending of cedar timber to the New York ship-yards, a northern man bought, and still owns, a large part of this island, for $8000 -- which perhaps is ten times what it would now sell for. The expenses of transportation had been so great as to disappoint the expectation of profit.

The soil of Hog Island is the most sandy that I had ever seen under cultivation. It is dry, and I saw no land moist enough for good grass land, except the marshes, which are subject to be frequently covered by the tide. The growing corn generally looked well: but when so speaking of it, I was reminded by the owners, that if a drought came, the crops suffered greatly more than any where else. They do not make oats, (or but rarely,) considering that crop most injurious to the productive powers of the soil -- but suffer the land to rest one year between each two crops of corn. The Magothy Bay bean covers the land during this year of rest, and was then far more forward and luxuriant that on the main, where oats had preceded. It was here (on July 12th,) knee high, where best, and it is said will rise to three and even four feet hereafter. This might be a good manure crop for the land: but the owners seem to have no view of any such matter, and rake together and burn the dry remains, wherever in the way of their small ploughs. The moving sand-hills are gradually covering up and thus destroying the fields on the sea side. This might be arrested here and elsewhere, by planting the sand-hills with such trees or grasses as will grow on loose sands, as has been restored to with success on the sea coast of France.

Miserable as may be the tillage and present products of this and the other islands (and on several of them there is no attempt at cultivation) I think that a proper selection of crops, and attention to the peculiar character of the soil and situation, might show that there exists a value, as yet unsuspected. The soil and situation (except as to latitude) agree very nearly with the sea islands of South Carolina, which are the most valuable of the lands in the south -- selling at from $250 to $300 the acre. Could not the same cause of value be found here, at least partially, by cultivating the fine sea island cotton?? But if that culture is forbidden by want of sufficient warmth of climate, (which is far from certain,) there are other vegetables suitable to sandy soils, and some to saline soils, which might here be found profitable. The growth of everything is said to be much more forward on the islands than on the neighboring lands of the peninsula -- as much so perhaps as on inland situations 200 miles more south: and the vicinity of, and speedy navigation to the markets of New York, and other northern cities, added to the more early maturing of all vegetables that can thrive on the islands, would give to their cultivators double the customary prices for every product. But the good people seem not to have any thought of agricultural improvement, and wait with calmness and resignation for the gradually advancing sand hills to cover their still remaining cultivated fields. It would be a good speculation if a company would buy up some of the extensive and almost desert islands, and improve them for stock raising, if for nothing else,. For this purpose but little would be wanting except to introduce suitable grasses, and to guard the stock from sea-faring thieves. If improvement for tillage was attempted, the adjoining marshes would supply both mud and vegetable matter in any quantity for manure, serving both to stiffen and enrich the soil.

Mosquitoes here are so great a plague, that the report of them alone was enough to limit my investigation to day light. But a worse evil is the bad quality for the water for drinking, which stands in the wells at about four feet only below the surface of the earth. Wells are dug with a sloping side for the cattle to walk down to drink in dry weather. Hares are very numerous and injurious to the crops on Hog Island. There are no squirrels. It is known, by tradition, that some particular wild animals were formerly brought from the main, and turned loose to breed: and without such an origin, it would be difficult to conceive how any came here, that could not fly or swim from the main land.

In 1821, a storm produced so great a rise of tide that this island, and all the others, were covered by the sea, except the more elevated sand hills. All the cultivated land was covered. The site of every house, on Hog Island was waist deep in water. Here and elsewhere most of the stock
were drowned, and some few persons also, on Smith's Island.

There are no slaves, nor any other than white persons on Hog Island. In making inquiry on this head of a very decent old man, at whose house we took dinner, I found that some of the islanders still own slaves, though they hire them out on the main, in preference to working them at home. He said that he had had the use of the last two slaves which had been on the island, but he found that they "wanted so much waiting on," that he was very willing to get rid of them. "They were lonesome here," he added, "as there were no others of their color, and I returned them to my father-in-law, to whom they belonged, that he might hire them out, as they wished, on the main."

On a shelf in this old man's neat log house, there lay a large new bible, to purchase which must have cost him the net income of his little property for some weeks. A newspaper, which had been brought as a wrapper to our victuals, was eagerly seized on, and read with such interest by several members of the family, that it induced me to think that here might be made a new and useful disposition of some of the religious tracts with which the good ladies have so glutted the market elsewhere. * * * * On inquiry, I heard that none had yet reached Hog Island.

Near the habitation, I observed several gourds hung up, with a hole in each, like those designed for martins to build in, but which were much too small for their use. They were intended for, and were used by wrens. My old host said he had been induced thus to accommodate them, because so scarce were hollows or suitable places for their nests, that they would often commence building where their labors were sure to be in vain. Sometimes, after having hung his jacket on a three, while at work, he had found that a wren had commenced to build a nest in the pocket, or sleeve.

We left the island precisely at the time which would make the courses of the tides most favorable -- and there was now a high wind which, though not quite fair, permitted a sail to be used, (and one was as much as the boat would then bear,) for the course through the most open water. The waves ran so high, that if I had suddenly found myself in such a situation without preparation, I should have thought that our best chance would be the chance of swimming. I am not much afraid of water, (for a landsman,) but have always deemed sail boats the most dangerous of all vessels. Yet so fast had my confidence in our pilot grown, that I felt perfectly at ease, while our little craft scudded over the waves, which once in a while meeting her bow, would throw a shower of spray over all her crew. The ordinary, and always proper precaution, of the line attached to the sail being held by the hand, so as to be let go when an upsetting blast of wind strikes, was neglected -- and the line was tied down fast, as soon as each new course was taken. This produced a strong proof of the stiffness of the vessel, or of the good luck of its commander. We had barely escaped striking on the extremity of the wide shoal extending from the land which "rejoices in the name," of Rogue's Island, and had taken our proper course, when the wind increased so suddenly that the mast snapped close off, and that alone prevented the whole being capsized. The sail was caught and saved, as it passed by the stern -- and the men barely had time to seize the oars and prevent the boat striking on the shoal to which it was drifting rapidly, and where it must have upset as soon as it struck, from the roughness of the sea. After this, we raised the other mast and sail, and our course through the water seemed to be rapid, and the passage delightful; but the course was made so circuitous by the state of the tide, that night arrived while we had still a long way to go, and along the creeks or channels between crooked marshes. To mend our prospect, it was very dark, so cloudy that no stars which could direct the course could be seen, and a thunder storm, with rain, was strongly threatening. The wind was now dead ahead, so that the oars were the only help, and my umbrella could not be hoisted, however desirable it might be, as it would be too great an obstruction to our progress. A strong argument now arose between W. (who also pretended to much seamanship,) and the pilot, as to whether the wind had shifted its direction or not -- and uncertain as that was, the direction of the wind was the only guide to steer by. Though the marshes, (now so covered that the tall grass only was above water,) were on each side of us, it was too dark to see them unless very near, and we often rowed into the grass before it was seen. The boundary too of such marshes is so irregular, that steering close by them would make the distance more than double the proper course, and might the more certainly mislead, by the many and abrupt changes of direction. I gave up the matter -- though silently, as I did not wish to discourage effort -- and thought it was utterly impossible to find the way through such difficulties. I counted on nothing better than spending the night, anchored among the marsh grass, and with the addition of heavy rain. The violence of the wind had kept the mosquitoes still, as yet -- but if it should fall calm, they would be worse than every other annoyance. However, we tugged on slowly enough, against strong wind, and partly against tide also. The rain at intervals began to patter, but fortunately it came to nothing worse. At last, from some more prominent features of the marsh and water, it was ascertained that old Charles' instinct had not failed him, and after seven weary hours of sailing and rowing, we touched the shore. The carriage which had been ordered to meet us at dark, had very properly been carried back, and we had a midnight walk of a mile and a half to my lodgings. Fatigue had kept off hunger, and left nothing wanting but rest.

* * * * * *

Soon after returning home, I met with my good friend Mrs. _____, who had recently made a tour to the north, and who gave me an amusing account of what she had seen. In return, I told her, that much nearer home, I had met with things, or had been correctly informed of their existence, far more strange, as for example -- of the commonwealth of Virginia having desert islands in the Atlantic Ocean, and other well inhabited, where the gospel had never been preached -- of their being on one (Chingoteague,) a breed of real wild, but diminutive horses, which lived on sea grass, and would almost starve on corn and good fodder, and which were caught by throwing the lasso, in South American style -- of sailing on
the Atlantic in a canoe -- of sea birds' eggs used as ordinary food -- of wrens building nests in men's pockets -- of a shark being beaten in single combat, by gouging, &c. All this list of marvels was pronounced to be an attempt at hoaxing -- and Mr. _____, who heard the conversation, (and who moreover prides himself, on being an excellent general geographer,) even denied that there were any such islands existing. This was giving me so much less credit than Gulliver's Travels received from the English bishop, who declared that he "did not believe that more than half of what they contained was true," that I determined to lay my day's observations, trivial as they may be, before the readers of the Farmers' Register -- furnishing the editor at the same time with a reference to a proper source for information as to the most interesting point, in relation to the "beach ponies," or wild horses of Chingoteague Island, of which I know nothing except by report.