Most Quaint Island on Virginia Coast
Chincoteague One of Virginia's Most Interesting Spots.
NO TRACE OF HER SETTLERS
They Lived and Died With the Waves of the Ocean -- Tradition as to the Origin of the Ponies -- Characteristics of People.
There is no record of the original settlers of Chincoteague, the most talked of and the least known of the islands along the eastern coast of Virginia. Even tradition gives us no names. They lived and died with the waves of the ocean and the still waters of the bays about them. All traces of their graves have long since been obliterated, or it may be that their bleached bones lie at the bottom of the sea which was their sustenance in life and their winding sheet in death.
Some students of the history of the Eastern Shore have a theory that the island was originally used as a feeding ground for stock belonging to persons on the main land and the original settlers were sent there by the owners to care for this stock. This theory is based on a reference in "the Day of Makemie" to a will by which the testato bequeathed "one black heifer running at large on Chincoteague."
It is also tradition that early in the seventeenth century a Spanish ship carrying a cargo of horses was wrecked off Chincoteague and though the entire crew of the vessel was drowned the horses swam ashore and from them sprang the famous Chincoteague ponies.In support of this tradition it is said that these ponies still have points that are like no other horses except those of Spanish breed. The records of the Land Office at Richmond, show that in 1672 Captain William Whittington was granted 5,800 acres comprising all of Chincoteague. Captain Whittington failed to complete his title and in 1677 the same land was granted by patent to Captain Daniel Jenifer. In Captain Jenifer's grant it is described as "being on the seaboard side in the upper part of the county (Accomac), it being the next island to the northward of Keckotank alias Occocomson" (now called Wallop's Island).
Captain Jenifer in turn abandoned his title and in 1684 a patent for the island was granted to Thomas Clayton, who also abandoned it. In 1692 the northeastern part, containing 2,725 acres, was granted by patent to William Kendall and on the same day the southwestern part was granted by patent to John Robbins, both of whom perfected their titles, and it is from them that the present owners hold. In these last patents the name of the island is spelled Jengoteag, and it is recited that it is due to the grantee "by and for the importation of Thirty-five persons into this colony whose names are in the records mentioned in this patent."
Much has been written and said of Chincoteague that is unfair to the people who live there. They are not savages. They do not live in caves. Their apparel is plentiful, nor is it the undressed skin of wild beasts, statements to the contrary notwithstanding. There is enough that is curious and interesting without drawing on the imagination. Chincoteague is nine miles long but only about five miles of this is settled. The salt marsh extends about two miles on each end. The width of the island (and no true islander ever calls it anything but "The Island") varies from three-quarters of a mile to a mile and a quarter. On the north and west lies Chincoteague bay, on the east lies Assateague inlet, just beyond which is Assateague Island, on the south lies Chincoteague Inlet, which is the outlet from Chincoteague bay to the ocean. The typical islanders are those who journeyings are confined to the neighboring oyster beds. There are others whose business and pleasure often call them to the more crowded haunts of men.
The true "islander" is not of these nor of these do we write. To select one special point and say "this is his distinguishing characteristic" would be impossible. If the attendance at the churches is evidence, he is strikingly religious. The population is about three thousand, and it is safe to say that in few, if any, towns of that population are the congregations equal to those of Chincoteague. One resident quaintly proclaims the faith of his family by an arched placard on his front gate bearing the words "In God We Trust." On either side are highly artistic representations of growing plants with an open Bible above.
The islander has an abnormal thirst for patent medicines, though no living mortal appears to be less in need of drugs of any sort. It is a recent record that one woman bought twenty dollars worth of a single medicine in one lot. She still lives and is an object of local pride.
That the islander has other thirsts is evidenced by the fact that Chincoteague after many years of torrid desolation has "gone wet," and the hotel men can sell their drinks without consistent dread of the sheriff's call. After the election, which made the island "wet" charges of illegal voting, the voting of men dead for twenty-five years, were freely made and the election officials were placed under arrest. After much delay they were finally tried and acquitted. Their return to the island after the announcement of the decision of the court was a triumphant entry. The islanders, like the men of Beth-shemesh, "rejoiced to see it." Bands played and tears of joy were wept And the hotel men told the boys to "line up." It is said that the order was obeyed with a precision that would have done credit to the regulars, and that it is the only order that the islander ever cheerfully obeyed, for he is opposed to restriction in any form. His life-long association with the boundless ocean may have given him this trait. It is a subject for theorists on the subject of environment.
For a year or two the administration of municipal affairs was entrusted to a mayor and city council. Notwithstanding the unquestioned ability with which they discharged the duties of their office the restriction of ordinances became too great for the liberty loving citizens and a concerted refusal to pay taxes resulted in the dissolution of the corporation. One of the matters which agitated the minds of the residents was the "hog in" and "hog out" question, but to their credit be it said, the "hog in" sentiment prevailed and that domestic animal, if no other, is still denied the privilege of the streets, even though the town fathers are no more.
The waters are filled with oysters and fish of the finest kind and almost every inhabitant is engaged in the business. The average season's output of oysters is about 35,000 barrels in the shell and 35,000 gallons shucked. No oyster packing is done there. The principal markets are in Pennsylvania, New York, New Jersey and Connecticut and the average price about $2.25 a barrel. Most of them are shipped by boat to Franklin City, Va., and thence by rail. The shuckers are paid by the gallon and make from seventy-five cents to a dollar and a half a day. Comparatively few are shipped in the summer season, though Atlantic City furnishes some demand. The process of fattening an oyster is seemingly a simple one, but there are seasons when they are poor in one section and fat only a few miles away, without any apparent cause. The oysters are taken from the rocks with long tongs and brought to the oyster houses on large scows or monitors and then placed in a fresh water vat, where they are allowed to remain a few hours, or sometimes a day or two, while they drink the fresh water and become plump. They are then taken from the vats and shucked or packed in barrels in the shell for shipment.
Wild fowl is plentiful, as many sportsmen from both northern and southern cities can well testify. The tables at the two hotels cannot be surpassed. If the islander lives as does the visitor there, his noticeable rotundity is not surprising.
The population of Chincoteague is not being enlarged by immigration, but the remarkable frequency of interesting domestic events guarantees it from lapsing into an uninhabited waste. The schools are already becoming much over-crowded. The teacher of one of the intermediate grades has under her charge ninety seven pupils. Another has eighty-nine and several others about the same.
There is very little timber on the island and both that used for building and for fuel is brought from the main land. Fire wood that is delivered in towns on the main land for $2 a cord costs $4 delivered at Chincoteague. Coal is chiefly used, however, and is cheaper. The terminus of the railroad leading to Chincoteague from the north is at Franklin City, Va. The railroad company's steamer "Chincoteague" and the United States Mail boat "Lillie" takes passengers across the eight miles of bay to Chincoteague. As the towns of Franklin City and Greenbackville recede and the shores of Chincoteague approach, Kellick Shoals light house is passed and Assateague light house looms up to the south. Kellick Shoals light house is built on the ordinary lines of a small cottage on shore and is set on a steel framework in the middle of the bay.
What is said to be the only wild goose farm in the world is located at Chincoteague. The farm is a never-ceasing object of interest to the visitor and of joy and profit to the owner. There are now between three and four hundred geese in the flock. The progenitors of this remarkable flock were two which were "winged" in shooting then tamed and used as decoys. The annual shipments from the farm now are about 400 to 600 fowl. Most of these are wild geese but there are some Japanese ducks, brant and other game. The geese bring about $5 a pair. In summer they feed on the marshes of Chincoteague and Assateague but as the cold weather comes on they gradually gather together near the owner's residence, where food is provided for them. Mingled with the geese are many kinds of birds and fowl and fancy breeds of chickens and ducks and even some swans. Particular care is being taken with the swans and the experiment of their culture bids fair to be a success in every way.
Assateague is reached from Chincoteague by means of small boats. Most of the land is owned by a resident of Chincoteague. The government light is located at Assateague. It was built in 1870 at a cost of $150,000. The light-house and the handsome residence which the government furnishes the keeper are situated on a knoll overlooking the sea. The residence from the exterior has much the appearance of a suburban club-house. The grounds about it are well sodded and are a restful contrast to the surrounding sand dunes. The register in the lighthouse bears the signatures of many distinguished visitors as well as hundreds who are yet unknown to fame. The present keeper of the light is one of the most efficient in the service and the government recognized this fact by making him one of its representatives in charge of the light-house exhibit at the Buffalo Exposition.
The view from the platform about the dome of the light is enough to satisfy most people, but it remained for a daring Pocomoke girl some years ago to ascend the frail looking ladder outside the dome and reach the extreme height of the towering mass of masonry, a feat which even the keepers seldom do for pleasure.
Chincoteague was the home of Joe Lynch, whose meditations with the members of his "sanctified band" so scandalized the community that they were finally driven away. They went to North Carolina and afterwards drifted around from place to place till Lynch died and the organization disbanded. Before Lynch left Chincoteague he announced his intention of showing the power of faith by walking upon the water at a certain hour. He fixed the time so it would be at low tide and at night. He privately built a short pier into the water just high enough to be covered an inch or two at low tide. One suspicious young man discovered the scheme and removed two of the boards near the outer end of the submerged pier. The result was disastrous to Lynch and it was shortly afterwards that he left the island.
There is told a pretty legend of the devotion of an Assateague maiden years ago. Her lover, a fisherman, was caught alone at sea in a terrible storm that swept the coast. Her heart ached with distress as she peered through the gathering dusk in the vain hope of seeing the sail of his boat. In all the blackness of the bitter night she kept a beacon of brushwood burning by which to direct his course, but just as the storm cleared away and the morning sun shed its glory over the sea, the waves laid his dead body at her feet. There are those who say that even now on stormy nights a dim light can sometimes be seen where the beacon burned. There are others who say the whole story is a myth. Skeptics live in every community.